As I write this, it is August 13th, the birthday of Cuba’s late president, Fidel Castro. I believe this is more than a coincidence, as he was the main inspiration for my first visit to Cuba in 2006. He had always been a figure who was larger than life in my history books, and, Cuba had always seemed a land of mystery with its revolutions, embargos and communist politics, all very different from the rest of the Caribbean. So, together with four of my friends, we embarked on our first trip to Havana, Cuba. Many people visit foreign countries on vacation and usually tick it off their ‘bucket lists’, as ‘been there, done that, on to the next adventure.’ I thought that would happen to me, as it had been with other places that I had visited, but then, something happened.
It is difficult to describe how I felt that Sunday morning when we checked into Hotel Nacional. We arrived at six a.m., after a delayed flight, so we opted to have breakfast, then go out to explore the city. The first thing we heard was the singing of a choir, and so, we ventured into a beautiful, historic church, which was packed for its morning mass. This experience erased one of my first misconceptions about Cubans; that they were all communists and were not allowed to practise religion. Here we sat, next to Catholics, freely proclaiming their faith.
The next five days were perhaps some of the most memorable of my life. We did all of the ‘tourist things’ which included visits to the ‘Palacio De Los Capitanes Generales’, the ‘Malecon’; ‘El Capitolio’; ‘Plaza de la Catedral’, among other sites. This may sound like the common itinerary of most tourists, and, even a little boring, but each place was unique and filled with such history, and most importantly, filled with some of the loveliest people I have ever met.
We interacted with locals in the streets, restaurants, on our rides in classic cars, coco taxis, horse- drawn carriages and visits to cigar and rum factories. These people were warm and welcoming but, somewhat cautious about how much they said about the conditions under which they lived. We witnessed the ration cards and lines for bread, meat, eggs and milk. However, what we also saw were a people who were proud and who, undoubtedly, loved their country.
After three visits, to date, Havana has become my favourite city in the world. The crumbling architecture amidst the new buildings is a perfect blend of the past and the present. However, if you ever decide to visit, you will always remember the MUSIC. You hear it, in some form or fashion, everywhere you go. I still vividly remember dining at the Floridita, the restaurant/bar made famous by Hemmingway, where we were entertained by an orchestra, complete with harpist. Also, in almost every local bar, park and marketplace, live music seemed an integral part of the ambiance.
In Cuba, I have experienced Carnival, attended a dance recital at the Gran Teatro, joined in celebrations for Fidel Castro’s birthday, swam in some of the most amazing beaches, danced in a nightclub set in a massive cave in a mountain, eaten some of the most delicious meals, bought some beautiful and unique pieces of art, rode on the local trains, and made some very interesting friends who include artists, musicians and various professionals.
While my first visit was centred around Havana, my other visits took me further afield. It must be remembered that Cuba is a massive country, with many other places to see and explore. I have visited Vinales, Varadero, Trinidad, Santa Clara and Cienfuegos, and there are still so many other places I need to visit. However, what made this last trip in 2016, so memorable was that we decided to forgo the hotels and stay with actual Cuban families, in their houses, referred to as ‘casas particulares,’ which are given government approval, and must meet certain requirements. Therefore, each place on our two-week tour, took us to different homes, either individually or in pairs, where we were treated with warmth and respect. I would recommend this experience to anyone wanting to see the REAL Cuba and get to know its people.
So, if you ever decide to visit Cuba, and you should, think about doing it differently. While the all-inclusive packages at the beach resorts such as Varadero are enjoyable, and well worth the cost, I also urge you to try different avenues to explore and experience the REAL Cuba and its people. I promise you will not regret it and, like me, will want to return time and time again.
